• What’s free: Physical books, ebooks, audiobooks, and reading access through legitimate library, nonprofit, school, and retailer programs
• Who usually qualifies: Anyone with library access, students, educators, kids/teens, low-income households (for some programs), and regular readers who use free trials carefully
• Typical value: Usually $5–$30 per book (more for textbooks, audiobooks, and boxed sets)
• Main limits or restrictions: Library waitlists, borrowing limits, region rules, kids-only programs, and time-limited promotions

2. Eligibility & Requirements Checklist

• Age requirement (if any): Varies (many programs are for children/teens, some are for adults, some are all ages)
• Residency/location requirement (if any): Common for public libraries and local community programs
• Account required (yes/no): Yes for most options (library account, app login, or retailer account)
• First-time customer only (if applicable): Applies to some free trials and welcome offers
• Purchase required (yes/no): Usually no (but some offers are “free with shipping” or “free after credits”)
• Credit card required (yes/no): Sometimes (mainly for free trials)
• Proof/documentation needed (if any): Sometimes (student status, educator verification, or residency for a library card)
• Limit per person/household (if any): Common (especially for giveaways and kids programs)
• Renewal frequency (if repeatable): Many are ongoing (library), others are seasonal or occasional
• Deadline or expiration (if any): Common for promos and giveaways; libraries usually do not have “expiring offers”

3. What You Can Get

Free book options typically fall into four categories:

• Library books (physical): Borrow and return like normal
• Library ebooks/audiobooks: Read/listen in an app, then the loan expires automatically
• Free book ownership (digital): Keep it permanently (often from promotions or public domain sources)
• Free book ownership (physical): Less common, usually through nonprofits, community programs, or giveaways

Common limits include:

• Borrowing caps (example: 5–20 digital loans at a time, depending on the library)
• Waitlists/holds for popular titles
• Time limits (example: 7–21 day loans)
• Age-based restrictions for children’s programs

How often it can be claimed:

• Libraries: Ongoing and repeatable
• Promotions: Occasional
• Kids programs: Usually seasonal or yearly

4. How It Works

Free books exist for a few legitimate reasons:

• Public libraries are tax-funded community services designed to provide free access to information and entertainment.
• Publishers and authors sometimes give away ebooks to boost visibility, reviews, or series readership.
• Nonprofits distribute books to support literacy and education access.
• Retailers and subscription services offer free trials to attract long-term customers (which is why payment info is sometimes required).
• Public domain books are legally free because copyright has expired or the work is explicitly released for free use.

5. Step-by-Step Instructions

Option A: Get Free Physical Books From Your Public Library

1. Find your library’s website and look for “Get a Library Card” or “Library Card Registration.”
2. Register online or in person (requirements vary by library system).
3. Search the library catalog for the book you want.
4. Place a hold if the book is checked out.
5. Pick it up when it’s ready (most libraries notify you by email or text).
6. Return it by the due date to avoid fines (some libraries are fine-free, but policies vary).

What to look for to confirm it worked:

A hold confirmation screen, a checkout receipt, or an account page showing your loan.

Option B: Get Free Ebooks and Audiobooks Through Library Apps

Common library services include Libby (OverDrive), Hoopla, and sometimes CloudLibrary or BorrowBox (availability varies by library).

1. Install the library app your library supports.
2. Sign in with your library card (or add your library card in the app).
3. Browse and borrow ebooks or audiobooks.
4. Download or stream the title inside the app.
5. Return early if you’re done (helpful for other readers) or let it expire automatically.

What to look for to confirm it worked:

A “Borrowed” status and the title appearing under “Loans” or “Checked Out.”

Option C: Get Free Kindle (or Other Ebook) Titles During Legit Promotions

Retailers sometimes discount ebooks to $0.00 for a limited time (genre promotions, first-in-series, author promos).

1. Go to the ebook store’s official site or app.
2. Filter for free ebooks (some stores have a “Free” category, others don’t).
3. Confirm the price shows $0.00 before checkout.
4. “Buy” or “Get” the ebook (even free ebooks usually require checkout).
5. Check your library/cloud list so you know it’s yours permanently.

What to look for to confirm it worked:

Order confirmation and the book appearing in your account’s purchased content.

Option D: Get Free Public Domain Books (Legal and Permanent)

Public domain books are legitimately free and can be downloaded in common formats like EPUB or PDF.

1. Use a well-known public domain collection site.
2. Choose the format you want (EPUB for most e-readers, PDF for printing, etc.).
3. Download directly without creating accounts if possible.
4. Open it in your reading app (Apple Books, Kindle app, Google Play Books, etc.).

What to look for to confirm it worked:

The downloaded file opens and saves locally or appears in your ebook library.

Option E: Free Books for Kids Through Literacy Programs

Some programs provide free books to children through mail distribution or school/community partners. Eligibility can be location-based and age-based.

1. Find the official enrollment page for the program.
2. Check the age and location rules before signing up.
3. Enroll using required details (typically parent/guardian info and child age).
4. Watch for confirmation that enrollment is active.
5. Track deliveries over the next several weeks (timelines vary).

What to look for to confirm it worked:

Enrollment confirmation and a note of expected shipment schedule (if provided).

6. What to Expect After You Sign Up

Typical confirmation:

• Library: Checkout receipt, due date, hold notification, or account status update
• Digital app borrowing: The book appears under “Loans” immediately
• Retailer free ebook: Order confirmation and book in your library
• Nonprofit/kids program: Confirmation message plus shipping timeline (if shared)

Typical timing:

• Instant: Digital loans and free ebook downloads
• Days to weeks: Waitlisted library books and mail-based programs

Delivery method:

• Pickup: Physical library books and holds
• Digital access: Ebook/audiobook apps and public domain downloads
• Shipping: Some nonprofit literacy programs and community distributions

If the free book doesn’t show up:

• Confirm you’re logged into the correct account
• Check the Loans/Library section (not just the home screen)
• Check order history for free ebooks
• Verify the title wasn’t returned automatically or expired

7. Costs, Catch, or Fine Print (If Any)

Free books are often truly free, but these issues can make them less “free” in practice:

• Library late fees: Some libraries still charge; others don’t
• Waitlists: Popular books may take weeks
• Borrowing caps: You may not be able to check out unlimited titles at once
• Format restrictions: Some ebooks aren’t compatible with every device
• Free trials: May require a credit card and auto-renew if not canceled on time
• Shipping costs: Some “free book” offers charge shipping or handling

If you use library programs or public domain sources, there is usually no cost involved.

8. Pro Tips

• Use your library for audiobooks to avoid paying per title.
• Place holds early for bestsellers and new releases.
• Borrow ebooks when you’re ready to read to avoid wasting your loan window.
• Use multiple formats strategically: ebook for convenience, physical copy for long reading sessions.
• Keep a simple “want to read” list so you can grab free promos quickly without impulse downloads.
• Check series order before downloading a free “Book 1” promo so it’s actually useful.

9. Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Assuming “free book” promotions always mean zero cost (shipping and handling can change that).
• Signing up for a free trial and forgetting about auto-renewal.
• Downloading from unofficial sites that don’t clearly explain licensing.
• Confusing borrowing (library) with ownership (retailer/public domain).
• Using the wrong app for your library (different libraries support different platforms).
• Missing the pickup window for held physical books.

10. How to Verify It’s Legit

A legitimate free book offer usually includes:

• Clear terms (what’s free, what’s not, how limits work)
• A recognizable provider (public library, well-known retailer, established nonprofit)
• A normal signup process (account creation, borrowing rules, order receipt)
• No pressure tactics or urgent “act now” messaging as the main hook

Where official terms are typically found:

• Library websites and borrowing policy pages
• App store listings for library apps
• Retailer product pages showing the price
• Program FAQ pages and official enrollment pages

Common red flags:

• Look-alike domains that mimic a real brand
• “Pay to unlock” language for something that should be free
• Claims of “unlimited free books” with no clear provider or terms
• Requests for unusual payments (gift cards, crypto, wire transfers)
• Files that require downloading unknown software to access “ebooks”

11. Is It Worth It?

When it’s worth the time:

• You read regularly and want free access to new books
• You listen to audiobooks and want to avoid paying per title
• You want free educational reading for kids without buying constantly
• You’re fine waiting a bit for popular titles

When it’s not worth the hassle:

• You need a specific book immediately and it has a long waitlist
• The offer requires payment info and you prefer zero-risk options
• The “free book” is bundled with shipping costs that erase the value

Realistic time vs value:

• Library borrowing: Usually high value for low effort once set up
• Retailer promotions: Moderate value, but requires checking prices carefully
• Mail-based programs: Great value if eligible, but slower delivery

12. Quick Answers

Is it really free?

Yes, many free book options are genuinely free, especially libraries and public domain sources. Some promotions are free only if you avoid shipping charges or trial renewals.

Do you need a credit card?

Not for libraries or public domain books. You may need one for free trials offered by subscription services.

Does it require a purchase?

Usually no. Some “free book” offers require paying shipping or making a qualifying purchase, so it’s important to confirm the terms.

How often can you get it?

Libraries are ongoing. Promos and giveaways vary and are not guaranteed to repeat on a schedule.

Can more than one person in the same household claim it?

For library use, often yes (each person may have their own card). For giveaways and mailed programs, limits per household are common and depend on the program.

Is shipping included?

Sometimes, but not always. Many physical “free book” offers still charge shipping or handling.

13. Related Freebie Categories

• Free magazines and digital subscriptions through libraries
• Free audiobooks and streaming media through library apps
• Free textbooks and learning resources (open education materials)
• Free children’s educational materials from nonprofits
• Free museum passes and community benefits through libraries
• Free trial subscriptions with safe cancellation policies

Find the most reliable used car:
Pick up a copy of Consumer Report’s used car reliability ratings to find detailed information on specific used car models you are looking for. It is important to check consumer reports even if you are buying a used car that you believe is reliable. While Toyota and Honda top the list as the most reliable automakers, you can’t assume that all their vehicles are going to be reliable. For example, the Honda Odyssey is considered a very reliable minivan, however, the 2000-2003 models had to have their transmission replaced or rebuilt more frequently than the average vehicle of the same age. Other resources online that have used car reliability ratings include: MSN Autos, JD Power and Edmunds.

Used Cars that are 2-5 years old typically are the best value. These “newer” used cars are past the steep part of the depreciation curve, have the latest safety features and equiptment, serious vehicle problems are more rare (engine/transmission replacement, faults in the cooling system), and some may even have the remainder of the manufacturer’s warranty left. Used cars 2-5 years old are a popular choice and should provide many more years of reliable driving.

Know your used car’s history:
Knowing your used car’s history is crucial to helping you make an educated purchasing decision. Many dealers will offer a free Carfax or Autocheck report, however, do not trust the history reports they print for you. Car dealer’s can easily manipulate the Carfax report to show no negative items (or withhold important pages). Be very wary of anything a car dealer tells you about a used car. They will tell you virtually anything to get you to buy the vehicle.

Many states do not require vehicle accidents to be reported to Carfax. The trusted vehicle history service you can rely on is Autocheck. Autocheck has exclusive data on auction frame damage, 2X the reported accidents vs. Carfax, and offers the only report with AutoCheck Score (which helps make your report easier to understand). You can also use it to easily evaluate and compare vehicle histories. AutoCheck receives its data from Experian, a trusted leader in automotive data.

Negative items to look for in your Autocheck vehicle history report are: accidents, two or more owners, fleet service, lease, or rental car usage, odometer roll back, corrected or duplicate title, emission test failure, or theft record.
*Two or more owners– if the previous owners of the used car you are looking at couldn’t wait to sell their car, why would you want to buy it? Two owners over a ten year span is not as bad.
*Fleet service or rental car usage– have you driven a rental car before? Did you take particularly good care of it, or did you drive the car with a lead foot and not care as much what happend to it? Rental cars are the result of hundreds of people abusing a car. Finally, would you rather buy a used car that one owner has driven and (hopefully) cared for, or hundreds of people have driven and [likely] abused?

Used Car Benefits:
Buying a used car will not only save you money, but also allows you to pay a less expensive insurance premium. Although your potential for a break-down is higher in a used car (as cars age, the chance of a break down increases), you are still saving money compared to buying a new car, even taking into consideration possible repair bills. If you are just looking for basic transportation to get you from point A to point B, buying used will save you money and is often a great choice.

Negative side of buying a used car:
Lets face it, the used car you are looking at is, well… used! Buying a used car could mean you are inheriting someone else’s used car problems. Used cars also typically carry a higher interest rate versus a new car (while your interest rate may be higher, the amount you are financing is usually less, which means you are still paying less money overall versus a new car). If you are paying cash for the used car then obviously interest rates do not matter.

Where to find the best deal on a used car:
Keep dealers honest by comparing used cars for sale at Cars.com and AutoTrader.com. These two sites offer the largest inventory and list used cars for sale by both dealers and private sellers. You can also find a good deal on a used car by searching eBay or Craigslist. There is a cost savings when buying from a private party because you don’t have to pay sales tax. You can save yourself approximately $1,050 on a $15,000 used car purchase by not having to pay sales tax (assuming 7% tax).

eBay Motors:
eBay has a huge inventory of used cars that are often not found on Cars.com or AutoTrader.com. eBay sells a huge amount of cars online, among the most popular are the Ford Mustang and Chevy Corvette. eBay lets you search locally within a specified mile radius from your home, or nationwide. Sellers on eBay are comprised of both individual sellers and car dealers. Keep in mind that buying from car dealers requires you to pay sales tax. eBay is a haven for car buyers looking for great deals, and the great thing about eBay is that you (the bidder) are in control. For peace of mind, make sure the eBay seller you are looking to buy from has enough positive feedback established. You don’t have to worry about paying for a vehicle and not receiving it, or fraudulent listings, thanks to eBay’s Vehicle Purchase Protection, which provides protection of up to $50,000 against certain losses associated with some types of fraud.

Once you have found the car you want to buy on Ebay, set up an appointment to see the car in person, if possible. Be sure to call the phone number (if any) listed on the auction and speak to the seller directly (ask any questions you may have and give yourself peace of mind). If the car is too far away, you can contact a mechanic in the city where the car is being sold and arrange for an inspection when you arrive. eBay also makes available a 150-point inspection service (purchase required) through SGS Automotive. SGS has a nationwide staff of trained inspectors, and offers: online reports available within 24 hours of your inspection, 150-point condition report, and interior and exterior photography. SGS makes buying “sight unseen” a little easier.

Know the trade-in, private party, and retail value for your used car:
Researching used car prices and values at KBB, NADA, and Edmunds is a must when shopping for a used car. Each of these sites has their own methods for valuing a used car, and in some cases [the value] can vary by thousands. KBB is the most popular used car valuation tool for consumers, but all three sites should be analyzed. If you have an account with eBay, you can search for the vehicle you are looking for (year, make and model), and view the results of completed listings (e.g. the winning bid of the vehicle you are looking for).

The used car bait and switch at a car dealer:
Before you visit your chosen dealer for a test drive, make sure you call ahead of time and confirm the vehicle you are coming in to test drive is still available. Some dealers might even tell you the car is available (knowing very well the car is gone) to attempt to bait & switch you. You can call up the dealer and speak to a different sales rep to verify vehicle availability (but beware that this could backfire on you, as salespeople are notorious for talking to one another, making sure they aren’t helping the same customer). Nonetheless, if you drive to a dealer and you are “bait & switched,” promptly get back in your car and drive away.

Negotiate the best price for a used car at a car dealership:
Once you have driven the used car and performed an AutoCheck (with positive results), your next step is to negotiate the best price on the car. Your first step is to request a rock bottom price via email (first initiated through Cars.com or the dealer’s website). It may require several emails back and forth to the dealer to obtain their best pricing. If the dealer already has your contact information, you will need to submit an additional request online using someone else’s name (create an alias, and new email address). Dealers are more likely to give a complete stranger a better price than someone they have already been in contact with (or test drove). A dealer has your contact info if you have provided your driver’s license for a test drive. In your emails, request dealer’s rock-bottom out the door price, including all taxes and fees (make sure you provide them with the county you live in for tax purposes, and whether you need new plates or transfer plates).

Once you have obtained the dealer’s best price via email, your next step is to visit the dealership and get a better deal. Used cars are marked up heavily (the sticker price on a used car is typically marked up $4,000-$6,000). Keep in mind the car’s sticker price will differ than the used car’s Internet price (in most cases). You should have a very good idea of what price to offer the dealer after using the above links to research used car values. Your goal is to negotiate the lowest sell price possible in person. Ask the dealer to provide a full bill of sale with all the taxes and fees included. Go through the bill of sale line by line to ensure you are not paying any prep or service fees, or any other bogus items. The only items that should be on the bill of sale for a used car should be the following: sell price, documentation (doc) fee, sales tax and license & title (commonly known as TT&L, tax, title, and license).

The last line on the bill of sale is your out the door price, and this is the number you need to negotiate. The out the door figure includes all the taxes and fees. By negotiating the out the door price and not the sale price, you prevent dealers from hiding bogus fees and other miscellaneous charges in the “middle” of the bill of sale. The out the door price is the final number that you would either a) write a check for, or b) finance.

When negotiating the best out the door price for a used car, your biggest bargaining points are:
– You can find a similar car (same year, make, and model) with similar miles at another dealer (or private seller) for less.
– You don’t necessarily need the car right now (it is more of a want than a need).
– The car is only worth “x amount of dollars” to you, and are not willing to pay any more. OR- you feel the car is only worth “such and such amount.”
– Time is on your side, and you can wait to find the best deal (however, make it aware that when you find the right car at the right price you are ready to pull the trigger right away) — Car dealers want to sell you the car now, so if you slow play it and make it seem as though you don’t have to make a purchase today, you will have more bargaining power.

Have a trusted, non-biased mechanic do a thourough inspection on the used car you are looking at:
Once you have arrived at a price you are happy with, your next step is to put a fully refundable deposit to hold the car and have a trusted third party mechanic inspect the vehicle. Make sure the dealer puts in writing the deposit is 100% refundable.

Do not settle for a certified, “dealer certified,” or vehicle that has received a 125-point inspection. These inspections are done by mechanics employed by the dealership, who do not have your best interest in mind.

CarMax:
CarMax is a good place to buy a used car with little stress. CarMax sales associates are not paid on commission, so they are not going to try to rip you off or manipulate the sales figures (as you will often find at a standard car dealer). That being said, you can not negotiate the price at CarMax, so the price you see online or on the vehicle’s window sticker is the price you pay. If you have done your research and find this advertised price to be good (and can’t find a lower price anywhere else), buying a used car at CarMax is not a bad way to go. CarMax is known for streamlining the car buying process (one person takes you from start to finish), which often saves you time and hassle.

Tips for financing a used car:
While used cars have higher interest rates than new cars, you can still obtain a competitive rate. Start by shopping interest rates at your local bank and credit union to see how low of a rate you qualify for (in my experience, customers have obtained the lowest rates from their local credit union). Your employer may also be affiliated with a credit union. Many credit unions will discount their loan rates further if you use “auto deduct” for your car payment, and/or activate other services such as checking, online bill pay, etc. Most banks and credit unions have no pre-payment penalties, which enables you to pay the loan off early, saving on interest charges.

Don’t buy a used car without AutoChecking it first.

With this information in hand, you should also shop interest rates at your local bank and credit union to see how low of a rate you qualify for (in my experience, customers have obtained the lowest rates from their local credit union). Use this information to compare the rates available at the dealership, or special rates available through the manufacturer. You will save yourself time, frustrations, and dealership headaches if you simply enter the dealership with a check already in-hand from your bank or credit union. This is not always possible, however, if you are looking to take advantage of a special APR offered through the manufacturer. The dealership would prefer if you finance through them, as they make money on the financing (and try to charge you a higher rate than what you actually qualify for). This is what it is important to know your credit ahead of time and “stick to your guns” at the dealership so you don’t get bullied around.

The major auto manufacturers have varied criteria for obtaining approval of special APR’s, so make sure you get approval ahead of time at the dealership. I recommend going into the dealership seperately to apply for credit, rather than online (some dealer websites are not secure, and others have problems accessing the data submitted). If you are a good distance away from the dealership you plan to buy your car at, then submitting your credit app online will have to suffice (call the dealer immediately after you submit your information so they can find your application and start the approval process). Do not assume you qualify for a special APR. If you are on the borderline between being approved or rejected for a special APR, dealers can request tier bumps from the manufacturer, and more often than not get you approved for the special rate.

Fees in the Finance Office:
Do not fall victim to the finance manager trying to charge you rate fees or buy downs. While in some cases the dealer may legitimately have to pay for a “rate buydown,” often times the cost is not worth the benefit. Be prepared to do the math and see what a rate buydown does to your payment. You should have already calculated your payment before you walk into the dealership, so if whatever the finance manager is offering you lowers your payment, you should at least give it a look.

Misleading 0% for 60 or 72 months advertised:
Looking through the newspaper (or even dealer websites) you will often see 0% for 60 or 72 months advertised. These rates are only true if they are offered through the manufacturer; otherwise, this fake rate is commonly known as a rate “buy down.” A buy down rate is similar to points on a mortgage. The dealer will charge you to buy the rate down to 0%, costing you hundreds to thousands of unexpensed dollars. To be safe, stick to the special rate advertised through the manufacturer, not the dealer.

Deciding whether to take the special APR or cash rebate:
Edmunds has made it extremely easy to determine whether to take the special APR from the manufacturer or the cash rebate. Factors that will affect your decision include possible trade-in (money owed on trade-in), money down, market finance rate (i.e. standard rate you can get through your local bank or credit union), and loan term. Visit Edmund’s Auto Loan Calculator, and click on “Low APR vs. Cash Back” on the top tab.

Clearly, your goal is to avoid any hidden fees on the bill of sale. For this to happen, you first and foremost need to ask for a copy of the actual bill of sale, with every charge and fee listed line by line.

In a perfect world, when you add all of the items up on the bill of sale, they will correctly add up to your bottom line number, which you either finance or write a check for. However, this is not always the case. If you add up all of the items on the bill of sale and the amount is smaller than your bottom line, out the door figure, you have a problem. Be up-front with your salesperson, and show him your calculations. Be firm and state that you are only willing to pay the figure that you calculated.

This is simply math, addition, and there is no reason why these figures should add up differently any way you calculate it. Ask to speak to the manager if your salesperson gives you a hard time.

Only the scummiest salespeople try to hide fees in the bill of sale without disclosing them to the customer, so hold your ground, and do not take no for an answer. Do not be afraid to walk out of the dealership and take your business elsewhere.

You have a voice online, whether it be blogging, Facebook, Twitter, or DealerRater. I am sure everyone would like to hear about your poor experience at the dealership, and avoid that dealer when shopping for their next car.

Once you have established the dollar amount you want to spend, you will want to start getting an idea what cars are in this price range. If you unsure the amount you want to spend, but know what monthly payment you need to be at, visit Edmunds Payment Calculator, which will show you what vehicle purchase price you need to be at in order to achieve your desired payment. Cars.com is a good site to browse both new and used cars, and to just get your feet wet. If you are shopping payment and trying to decide whether to purchase or lease, use the Bloomberg buy or lease calculator to help you make an informed decision.

Reasons to Purchase a Car:
– Paying cash and don’t want payments
– Buying a used car (can’t lease used cars)
– Plan to keep vehicle for a long time (6+ years)
– Don’t want to deal with the mystery and complications of leasing (mileage restrictions, vehicle damage after end of lease) Note: you will be billed for door dings, windshield cracks, and anything beyond normal vehicle wear and tear, at the end of a lease.
– Vehicle you are looking at has a poor residual value
– Credit qualification problems (tougher credit restrictions for leasing than purchasing)
– Don’t want to always have a car payment (if you continually lease a car every few years)
– Plan on heavily customizing vehicle

Reasons to Lease a Car:
– Wanted nicer vehicle and lower payments
– Want to prevent costly vehicle maintenance bills (more common the older a vehicle gets: timing belts, engine/transmission, shocks/struts, electrical systems)
– Writing the payment off as a business expense
– Plan to keep vehicle for shorter period of time (48 months or less)

Used Car Buying Guides:
– AutoCheck Vehicle History Report
– Consumer Reports used cars
– KBB used cars
– Edmunds Used Cars
– MSN used car reliability ratings

New Car Buying Guides:
– Car and Driver
– Edmunds New Cars
– Motor Trend New Cars
– U.S. News Rankings and Reviews
– J.D. Power Ratings
– KBB New Cars
– Consumer Reports New Cars

Most of the quotes below were sent based off this email request:

I am looking to purchase a new 2015 Honda Odyssey LX. Color is not an issue. I am looking for your best out the door price, including all taxes, fees, destination, etc (I live in SoandSo County, and need new plates). I own a Honda Accord and am a recent college grad (please include any owner loyalty and college grad rebates if there are any).I am sending this to four local dealers, and will contact the dealer with the lowest price by this Friday. I have already test driven this car and like it. Due to my busy work schedule right now, I am only able to reply via email. Thank you in advance! -Brian

I created a fake new Yahoo! email account for this as well, since I don’t care for any more spam to my personal account.

One dealer sent a fairly decent quote:

Hello Brian,

My name is Salesperson’s Name and I wanted to thank you for your vehicle purchase request on the 2015 Honda Odyssey LX here at dealer.

I am sending you our special March Internet Pricing for the vehicle that you selected.

Your Special Internet Sale Price is * $25,901.63

Special Financing 0.9% APR with approved credit.

Your out the door breakdown is below: In stock # F00000 Modern Steel

2015 Honda Odyssey LX 25,901.63
Document Fee 193.00
New Plates and Title 196.00
Taxes (7.25%) 1,891.86
Rebate 1,000.00
TOTAL 27,182.49

There are no current loyalty program rebates with ownership of a Honda Accord at this time.

My goal here is to provide you with hassle free shopping process, so let me know how I can help?

We would be happy to set up an appointment and have the vehicle pulled up and ready. We’re open 9 Am to 9 Pm on weekdays, 9 Am to 6 Pm on Saturday. What date and time would work best for your schedule to stop in?

Sincerely,

Salesperson’s name

Somebody else responded with:

Hi Brian,

Thank you for your interest in the new 2015 Honda Odyssey LX! Below is the Out-the-Door (OTD) price you asked about including all applicable taxes and fees…

For the 2015 Honda Odyssey LX ,

MSRP:

$29,855.00

Base Internet Sale Price:

$24,504.00

• Destination Charge:

$880.00

Total Internet Sale Price:

$25,384.00

• Documentation Fee:

$168.00

• Electronic Filing Fee:

$25.00

= Taxable Amount:

$25,577.00

• Sales Tax:

$1,860.40

at

7.0%

• Registration & Plates:

$196.00

(New Plates)

= Total Price OTD:

$27,633.40

If you’re interested in special financing, Honda is now offering dealer special APR rates as low as 0.9% on all 2015 Honda Odysseys. APR rates and price are good thru March 31st, 2015.

This model is currently in stock and available for immediate delivery! Total Price OTD includes destination charge, doc fee, applicable sales tax, title and license but does NOT include any options or accessories.

BE CAREFUL!

RED ALERT: “does NOT include any options or accessories”

This is a dead giveaway that the dealer is going to try to tell you that the car is $xx.00 higher due to added options or accessories.

The Real Deal

This dealer was the first to grab my attention. I liked the straightforwardness and no addition of bogus fees or accessories:

Hello Brian,

My name is Saleperson’s name . I am the Internet Sales Consultant here at dealer. Thank you for your interest in our dealership as well as the Honda product. I received your request for a 2015 Honda Odyssey. Below is your current pricing information. No games, No Hidden costs, and no accessories required for purchase!

2015 Honda Odyssey LX
List Price $28,975
Sale Price* $24,335
THE ONLY ADDITIONAL ITEMS WOULD BE TAX, DESTINATION, LICENSE PLATES AND THE $168.43 DOCUMENTATION FEE.

The above dealer the quickly responded to my out the door quote request.

Brian,

Thank you for getting back to me! See my pricing below for 2015 Odyssey LX

I only ask please do not share the following with other dealers as they will not provide you with the same. Nor do they offer straight forward pricing, quick, and easy car buying experience. Remember No Games, hidden costs, and no accessories are required for purchase.

Pricing is for any Brand new Honda Odyssey LX. Honda does offer an additional -$500 off if you are in the military. 0.9% for 36 months and 1.9% financing is available to all qualified buyers. Honda also offers financing assistance to recent college grads.

2015 Honda Odyssey LX
$24,335 sale price
$880 Destination
$1914 (taxes)
$168 doc fee
$25 registration
$196 new plates

$27,518 OUT THE DOOR (taxes and new plates)

What time Friday works best for you as this will be the best price you find! I would really appreciate your business as I will be personally be working with you upon your arrival. (unlike other dealerships) I will also make sure it’s a quick and easy transaction!!

Ok, this guy’s good.

The other dealers

There were quite a few dealers who ignored my inquiry altogether. That is OK. The dealers who did reply were the ones interested in making a sale.

Sorry folks, matching isn’t good enough

I said to a different dealer: “Bring your price down about $1,000 and you’ll be in the ballpark of 2 other local honda dealers,” he replied with:

Hey Brian,

this is what I can do for you bring in your best offer in writting if i can’t beat the number I will match it!

Thanks for your time!
Salesperson’s Name

I’m fairly sure I won’t be taking him up on this. If one dealer is good-natured enough to send me their best price, I’m going to shop there. Loyalty means something to me.

Likewise, speed to respond was very important as well. I looked very highly upon the people who responded very quickly to my initial inquiry.

Yet another quote:

Here is the detailed, no hassle pricing for your
2015 Honda Odyssey LX

MSRP: $29,805.00
Your Price $25,599.00

• $880.00 Destination Charge
  = Total Price $26,479.00

The promised land

This dealership, residing in a rich Chicago suburb, was about $2,000 higher than everyone else:

Brian,

Below is the OTD quote you requested. Thank you again and we look forward to working with you. Have a great day!

VEHICLE 15 Odyssey LX
MSRP (w/destination) $ 29,855
SELLING PRICE* $ 27,683

• (includes destination charge)
  ACCESSORIES (installed price) $ –
  TRADE ALLOWANCE $ –
  CASH DIFFERENCE $ 27,683
  DOCUMENTATION FEES $ 193.43
  SALES TAX 7.25% $ 2,021
  COUNTY OF RESIDENCE: Cook
  COOK COUNTY TAX $ 15
  LICENSE & TITLE new $ 196
  BALANCE ON TRADE $ –
  TOTAL PRICE $ 30,108
  HONDA REBATE $ 1,000
  TOTAL $ 29,108

After letting him know he was $2,000 higher than his competition, he says:

Thank you for your response. My sale price was $300 over the invoice of the vehicle. If someone is beating us by 2k, sometimes when things seem to good to be true, they are. If and when they start playing games with mandatory additional accessories, paint protection, or extended warranties, please keep us in mind. Thank you and have a great day!

This makes me chuckle a little bit. He apparently is living on a different planet. Or, perhaps everyone in his well-to-do town doesn’t comparison shop… I’m not quite sure.

The Van

These quotes are for the 2015 Honda Odyssey LX, which has an MSRP of $29,855 including destination.

2015 Odyssey LX Automatic Transmission

$28,975 (without destination)

Prices shown are manufacturer suggested retail prices only. Installation cost for accessories is not included. No accessories selected. Dealer costs may vary. Prices exclude applicable taxes.

Subtotal
$28,975

Destination and handling
$880

Total MSRP as built $29,855

Your turn

Have you been shopping for a car? Share your experience in the comments below!

Your salesman may insist that the tax figures are correct, stating that the taxes are correctly by the computer. That being said, most salespeople will not try to make you overpay on taxes. However, as the economy worsens, salespeople are more likely than ever to try and rip you off. Be prepared, and have your calculator handy!

Car Manufacturers A–K (1: Low, 5: High)

Car Manufacturers L–V (1: Low, 5: High)

Car Manufacturers A–K:

– Acura: dealers stick pretty close to invoice; some are willing to go a few hundred under invoice to make a deal.

– Chevrolet: dealers are starting to get more competitive with pricing, but still not as low as their Asian competitors.

– Ford: dealers are unwilling to negotiate as much as some of their closest competitors; a few hundred under invoice is a reality for most Ford cars. Ford Credit, however, is very strong with competitive financing rates.

– Toyota: dealers have started to get more aggressive with their pricing and incentives, and have overall good products (despite their recent quality woes).

Car Manufacturers L–V:

– Lamborghini: dealers are going to charge you full sticker price. Can you blame them?

– Nissan: dealers are quite willing to give their cars away, to the tune of thousands below invoice. Rich people can even haggle the GT-R down to invoice or less.

A Quarterback / Maven: a person other than the buyer who starts negotiating the deal, often a friend, relative, significant other or “someone in the business.” Car salespeople hate this.

An Up: a customer who walks on the car lot.

Holdback: money the dealer receives from the manufacturer once the car sells (typically between 1-3% of either the MSRP or invoice price of a new vehicle). Helpful holdback guide from Edmunds.

A Be-back: a customer who leaves without buying, and comes back at a later date.

A Laydown / Real Buyer: a customer who buys at whatever price the salesperson quotes.

a Buy-Down Rate: when a dealer charges the customer to buy the rate down to 0%. You need to be aware of this when the dealer is advertising 0% APR, and the manufacturer is offering a higher rate.

A Get-Me-Done: a customer with borderline credit at best, willing to take almost any vehicle at any terms just to get financed.

The Bump: when the Sales Manager sends the salesperson back out to get a higher price.

A Rat / roach: a credit challenged customer, typically under 600 credit score.

Gold Plated: 750+ credit score.

A rock / solid: 700+ credit score.

A Lowball: an unrealistically low price that the salesperson gives the customer before they leave to shop price at another dealer. A lowball can also be when the salesperson give the customer less money for their trade than it’s worth.

Upside Down: when a person owes more money on their trade-in then the vehicle is actually worth.

Negative Equity: the negative amount on a customer’s car loan after computing the trade-in value minus the payoff (happens quite frequently, read this article on “the real reason you’re broke“).

Positive Equity: when a trade-in is worth more than the payoff amount (more rare).

Croak and Choke: when the Finance Manager sells Credit Life Insurance and Disability Insurance on the car loan.

Spot Deliver / Brick: the dealership wanting the customer to take the car now, often times having the customer sign bank papers before the loan is officially approved.

Buyers are Liars: how car salespeople are taught to think about customers.

The T.O.: when one salesperson can’t close the deal he/she will T.O. (turn you over) to a manager or closer; this process may repeat until the customer either buys or walks out of the dealership.

A Packed / Loaded Payment: getting customers to purchase additional products (credit insurance, service contracts, chemical protectants, security devices) without revealing the true impact on their monthly payments.

Packing: when a customer finances their vehicle through the dealer and agrees to a purchase the car at a higher monthly payment than what is needed to cover the price of the vehicle. This creates a “pack” or room in the payment so the dealer can add extra services/products, typically without the customer knowing he/she is actually paying more for the products.

Buyers Remorse / Coming Out of the Ether: when a car buyer starts having second thoughts about the car purchase (customer begins wondering if they got ripped-off, did they do the right thing, can they really afford the payments, etc.)

A Today Buyer / Hot to Trot: when a customer is prepared to purchase a vehicle the same day they enter the dealership

ACV: stands for Actual Cash Value, which is what dealers use when referring to the amount of money they are actually putting in a trade. This number is often different than the number communicated with the customer (a salesperson is paid by holding back money on a customer’s trade-in). Customers are often led to believe (e.g. lied to) that they are getting more for their trade than what the ACV is.

This guide was created to protect people from getting ripped off at a car dealership. As a former car sales pro with over five years of direct dealership sales experience, I have an immense amount of information to pass along to you that will help you save a ton of money on your new or used car.

In order to secure the lowest pricing for your new car, you will need to obtain multiple price quotes from your local car dealerships.

Where to find the lowest price quotes from local car dealers:
Edmunds free dealer price quotes and TrueCar offer buyers the quickest way to receive multiple car dealer price quotes.

These two sites enable you to request price quotes from multiple manufacturers (e.g. Ford, Toyota, Honda, Hyundai, BMW, etc.). Likewise, Edmunds and Yahoo! Autos offer the ability to request quotes from multiple dealers at the same time. This kills two birds with one stone because it 1- saves you time, and 2- lets the dealer know to send their best price because you will be receiving quotes back from multiple dealers. When dealers compete for your business, you win.

In addition to these two sites, you can Google your City’s name and vehicle manufacturer (e.g. Chicago Ford dealer). Alternately, you can go to the manufacturer’s website and use the dealer locator. If there is room in the comment box while requesting a quote, make sure to mention what county you live in (this helps the dealer compute taxes), whether you need new license plates or have transfer plates, and request the dealer’s most competitive out the door price.

Don’t give out your real phone number if the website requires it, as it is not worth the hassle of getting bombarded with a hundred phone calls from car salespeople. Follow up with the two car dealerships that give you the best price, and make them compete for your business.

Request the dealer’s out the door quote:
If there is no room in the comment box to request the out the door quote, be sure to reply to the dealer’s initial price quote asking for the out the door quote, including all taxes, license/title/plates, destination, etc. Comparing your local dealer’s out the door quotes is the only way to compare apples to apples and obtain the best deal, as many dealers will hide bogus fees or other mysterious items in their quotes. Also confirm with the dealer what rebates and/or incentives they have included in their quote. Many manufacturers offer consumers either the special APR or customer cash, but some offer both. Lastly, be sure to let the dealer know if you are a recent college grad or military, as these two items often bring additional rebates (make sure dealers aren’t including these rebates in their quotes, if you are not a recent college grad or military personnel).

Sample emails to local car dealership:
Sample car dealer email #1
“Hello. I am looking to purchase a new 2010 Mustang coupe V6 automatic. Color is not an issue. MSRP for this car is $22,840, and I am looking for your best out the door price, including all taxes, fees, destination, etc (I live in San Diego County, and need new plates). I am sending this to four local dealers, and will contact the dealer with the lowest price within 2-3 days. I have already test driven this car and like it. Due to my busy work schedule right now, I am only able to reply via email. Thank you in advance! -Sam”

Sample car dealer email #2
“I plan on purchasing a new 2010 Ford Mustang V6 coupe auto trans (not premium or convertible). Color is not an issue. MSRP for this car is around $22,800 I believe. I will purchase this Mustang within 1 week from the dealer with the lowest out the door price (include all rebates, but not the 500 grad). Please include all taxes and fees. This should be the amount I write you a check for. I live in San Diego and will need new plates. Please, email only right now. I will call the dealer with the lowest price. Thank you! -Chris”

Tips: Be specific with the vehicle you are looking for, otherwise the dealer may quote you on the wrong vehicle.

Once you start receiving price quotes via email, ask the dealer to break down the bill of sale line by line. A standard bill of sale looks like:

Sell Price: $xx,xxx (Internet price quoted should be sell price minus rebate below. Sell price should already include destination)
Trade-in Allowance: $x,xxx
Cash Difference: $xx,xxx (taxable amount, a trade-in save you money on taxes)
Dealership fees/Doc Fee: $xxx (typically ranges between $50-$150)
Sales Tax: $x,xxx (based on what county you are titling the car in)
Aftersale: $xxx (if you bought any aftermarket products/accessories)
License & Title: $xxx (varies whether you transfer or get new license plates)
Balance on Trade: $x,xxx (you should call your finance company ahead of time for your vehicle’s payoff)
Total Price: $xx,xxx
Down Payment: $x,xxx
Rebate: $x,xxx (Manufacturer rebates are typically deducted after taxes; occassionally you will see dealer cash here also)
Out the Door/Amount to Finance: $xx,xxx (This is the amount you are requesting from the dealer via email)

Prep fees & service fees:
Note that the bill of sale above does not have a line item for prep fees or service fees. That is because these fees are bogus and should not be paid. Many dealers try to charge a prep fee for having their lowest paid employee peel plastic off the car and cleaning it up for delivery (or they might even say a mechanic checked the fluids and inspected the brand-new car). While the car does need to cleaned and prepped, this service is free and should never be paid. Walk out and find another dealer if this conversation lasts too long.

Once you are presented with a bill of sale, It is in your best interest to get out your calculator and calculate the dealership’s bill of sale line by line. You need to understand what you are paying, and check for errors. When computing your sales tax, you need to confirm with the dealer what sales tax percentage you are being charged (based on what county you are titling the car in). Taxable items on your bill of sale include: 1) Sell Price minus Trade-In (if any), 2) Dealership fees/Doc Fee, 3) Aftersale (if any), and 4) License & Title. Once you have computed the taxes, add this number to the rest of the items on the bill of sale, and this should equal your out the door price.

If you don’t get a competitive price quote via email, you will need to start calling dealers via phone, and requesting exactly what you did via email. The dealer will ask you, “What price do we need to be at,” or “What price will it take to earn your business?” Ignore these questions, as they are simply lures and sales tactics. You can reply with, “I am simply looking for your best out the door price, and will buy from the lowest priced dealer.” You don’t need to go into further details, or tell them which other dealers you are shopping. Be firm with them if necessary, and always request the quote via email. A dealer not willing to quote via email isn’t willing to honor the price quoted over the phone. You can say you need to show the email to your significant other, or just for your own records or peace of mind.

When you go to the dealership:
Your first visit to the dealer should be to strictly test drive the car and collect information (brochures). If the salesperson brings up pricing, simply say you are not ready to discuss pricing yet, and are just in the beginning research/test drive stage. You can also get a no-obligation trade-appraisal at this time (or take your car to CarMax).

Upong arriving at the dealership to make your purchase, make sure you specifically ask for the salesperson who emailed you (by this time, you should have already called or emailed this person to set up an appointment and confirm he/she will be available when you plan to visit). Be very selective in the information you tell your salesperson, as he/she will use this information against you to try and bump you or add more profit to the deal you have already worked out). Tell them you have a friend in the business (that’s me!), but don’t tell them who or where I work. You don’t have to be rude, just tell them you would prefer not to mention where I work (while not all car salespeople are shady, most will lie to you every chance they get).

Car salespeople have incentive to rip you off, because they are paid a commission on the vehicle’s gross profit (or how much additional they charge you from the original price quoted). For example, if the salesperson quotes you $18,000 for a car, and then bumps you to $18,500, he/she gets paid a percentage (usually 20-30%) on that $500 extra profit. There is typically no limit to this, so if the salesperson bumps you $2,000, they will earn at least $400 for overcharging you. Salespeople have become extremely good at hiding or masking these additional charges, which is why you must be on your toes at the dealership.

Also, show very little emotion while at the dealer (e.g. don’t say you are in love with the car). Otherwise, if the salesperson thinks you are going to buy the car, you have lost, and will not get as good of a deal. There is much psychology involved when buying a car. Do not let your emotions guide your purchasing decision.

Getting a better price than you were quoted via email:
Some dealers will legitimately have no more room to go above and beyond what you were quoted. However, many more dealers will be willing to budge a little more. You should feel comfortable asking for $500-$1000 less than the price quoted to you (you can choose to do this in-person at the dealership or via email; in person is usually more successful). The salesperson will ask how you got to that pricing, and you simply need to say, “that is all I am willing to pay, or “that is what another dealer offered me.” Dealers hate the feeling of losing your business to another dealer, so this tactic works very well. You simply need to say that is the out the door price “John quoted me at so-and-so-dealership, and I am seeing if you can do a little better” The salesperson or manager will give you their sob story of how they can’t lose money to sell you a vehicle, but just stick to your guns and get yourself the best deal possible.

Rarely will the dealership lose money on a deal, so don’t feel bad that you’re buying way under invoice:
Since you’ll be buying your new car under invoice, you might start to wonder how the dealership will survive or stay in business. You shouldn’t worry too hard because the average dealer’s profit per new car deal is $1,000-$1,500 on average (even more for used cars). While the dealer may be breaking even or even losing money to sell you a car, many more people are paying thousands more than you for the same car. Buying a car is is a game: you are trying to buy the car for as little as possible, and the dealer is trying to sell it for as much as possible. Most of the time the dealer wins this game, which is why many thrive and continue to stay in business. Although you are buying the car for under invoice, the dealer is still making money on financing, kickbacks, dealer holdback (money they receive from the manufacturer once the car sells), and monthly volume bonus’s and incentives. The F&I (Finance and Insurance) and Parts & Service departments are the most profitable for the dealership, which helps it stay afloat and in-the-black (positive earnings).

Dealership Reputation & Reviews:
The Internet has made it especially easy to find a reputable dealer. A dealer’s BBB (Better Business Bureau) reputation holds a good deal of weight (look for A+ ratings), as do online reviews. Filing a complaint with the BBB against a dealer who is not accredited by the BBB is worthless. Alternately, a BBB accredited dealer has much more to lose and will often try much harder to please you and honor the pricing they quoted.

The easiest way to find reviews of your local dealer is to simply search for them on Google. For example, Google “san diego nissan dealer” and you’ll find local business results with dealership reviews out of a 5-star rating. Google includes reviews from most of the leading dealer review websites, including DealerRater and Edmunds, Beware of dealers falsely inflating their reviews through sites such as PrestoReviews. While I am not trying to suggest all car buyers leave the dealership unhappy, an excess of positive dealer reviews should be taken with a grain of salt. Use common sense when choosing a dealership, and more often than not you will choose a dealer based on your initial experience (via phone or email) with the salesperson (or Internet Sales Manager).

Trade-Ins:
Trade-ins are huge profit centers for dealers, and one of the least understood or items at the dealership (considered a wild card). You will almost always get more money selling your car on your own, rather than trading it in at the dealership. The Internet makes it extremely easy to sell your vehicle, and the most popular sites to do so are: eBay Motors, Cars.com, AutoTrader, and Craigslist. You can also get a quick no-obligation appraisal for your vehicle through CarMax.

If you must trade in your car at the dealership, be prepared for a battle. Salespeople love stealing from your trade (e.g. giving you less for your car than the manager appraised it for), and are very good at convincing you of your car’s lack of value. Salespeople are paid a percentage (20-30%) of how much money they steal from your trade. I have seen trade-ins raised $2,000-$3,000 from what the manager initially appraised the car for (meaning the manager who appraised the car was trying to steal from the salesperson). Alternately, dealers will tell customers their trade is worth far more than it really is because they have front-end profit (selling the new car at a higher profit margin). This confuses customers because they are being told their trade is worth more than it really is. Good guides to help you determine your trade-in value are: KBB, Edmunds, and NADA. You can use these same guides to find what an individual buyer would be willing to pay for your car (to list it for sale on Cars, AutoTrader, eBay or Craigslist).

Aftermarket Products such as Paint Protection (cealant), Undercoating, Vin Etch:
The sales person, “delivery coordinator,” or aftermarket specialist will give you a really good, really sales-y pitch on how you should protect your investment with paint cealant, undercoating, vin etching, etc. This products are typically a waste of money and I do not recommend you buy them. Their primary purpose is to increase dealer profit, and are often marked up 300% and higher. The dealership’s cost for a “package A” (which includes undercoating, paint protection, interior stain protection, etc.) is around $300-$400, and the standard asking price is between $1300-$1800. Dealers are unlikely to give away this item at their cost. As for adding remote start, first compare prices at BestBuy.

Extended Warranty:
If you choose the right vehicle, you should not need an extended warranty. Doing your research ahead of time and choosing a vehicle that has good reliability ratings will save you pain and headache down the road. Today’s vehicles are being built better and better, and extended warranties can typically be bypassed. However, if you need the peace of mind of being covered by a costly breakdown, research warranty costs at Warranty Direct, in addition to your local dealership’s offerings. Keep in mind that not all warranties are created equal, and the cheaper warranty is not always better. Compare the warranty coverages, deductables, term (year and mileage), and last but not least, cost. You also need to verify what service locations the warranty is valid at (only the dealership, or nationwide). Hyundai’s quality has greatly improved in recent years, and comes with a standard 10 year / 100,000 mile warranty, and roadside assistance for 5 years.

Know your Vehicle’s Invoice Price:
My favorite site for finding a vehicle’s invoice price is KBB. The Invoice price is the price the dealer actually paid for the vehicle from the manufacturer (less the holdback the dealer receives after the vehicle sells). Many dealers are quoting hundreds to thousands less than invoice, thanks to generous factory incentives, programs, and volume bonus’s.

Step #1) From KBB’s mainpage, click on “Search by Make and Model” under “New Cars” on the left. Choose your preferred Make and Model, enter your zip code, decide what year vehicle you want, and click on “Pricing” under your preferred model year (be aware that late model year vehicles are hard to find).
Step #2) Click on the vehicle’s specifications that best suits your needs (body style, AWD or FWD, engine size, and transmission preference). Take your time here and make sure you choose the correct trim. Once you’ve made your selection, you should see your chosen vehicle’s MSRP and Invoice.
Step #3) Now, click on “Price with Options” on the left. This page shows you most of the available rebates and incentives (college grad, military, or owner loyalty discounts may be missing). This page shows you the Invoice for the vehicle itself and all available options, which will prove to be extremely helpful. Most of the cars sitting on dealer’s lots have floor mats and splash guards (mud guards), or other items pre-installed. Whether you wanted these items or not, you have to pay for them (you might be able to convince the dealer to take the floor mats out).

Memorial Day, Thanksgiving, New Year’s, Independence Day: Additional Savings:
Around the Holiday’s, the manufacturers almost always come out with additional cash rebates that can be used in addition to all current cash rebates and special finance rates. This means that holiday shoppers can get the best deal. Holidays are a dangerous time at the dealership, however, as salespeople are often trying to make as much money as possible (e.g. charge you more). But an intelligently planned Holiday purchase can result in the most dollars saved. Some manufacturers also have additional summer and end of month savings. Generally speaking, it is true that dealers discount more towards the end of the month.

Additional Research:
– Go to the store and buy the latest consumer reports magazine. They have good articles on car buying, plus reviews for the best new cars.
– Make sure you choose the right vehicle by test driving several different vehicles and researching reliability ratings and consumer reviews.

FAQ

Q: Why was this site created?
A: This site was created to help prevent customers from getting ripped off at car dealerships. The information listed on these pages will help people save thousands of dollars on their new or used car purchase, and might even enable you to feel confident you got a good deal after you leave the dealership.

Q: How can I trust this information will help me save money on my car purchase?
A: I have been employed at a high volume car dealerhip for over five years, and have the experience and knowledge you can rely on.

Q: What was your motivation to create this site?
A: Everyone has had a bad car dealership experience. I was one of them. Fortunately, I was given the opportunity to sell cars and learn the ropes. Also, my family always had the feeling they were ripped off after they bought a car, and I had no idea how to help. It also helps that I am a car enthusiast.

Q: I have questions related to getting a good deal on a specific vehicle. Can you help?
A: Yes! Send me an email and I’ll be happy to investigate pricing on your specific vehicle. Be sure to include your zip code or closest major city so I can shop deals in your local city.

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